Kat’s guidebook
Sightseeing
Marfa’s world-class art scene centers upon the Chinati Foundation, the contemporary art museum/complex of permanent large-scale installations founded by the artist Donald Judd after he moved out here in the late 1970s. Situated throughout the buildings and grounds of a sprawling 340-acre WWII military base, the collection contains works by Donald Judd and 12 other artists and the majority of these works are only accessible through their guided tours. At the present moment, though, the museum has only just reopened their doors for self-guided viewing on designated outdoor walking trails. These trails will take you through Judd’s 15 works in concrete and offer fantastic exterior views of his 100 works in mill aluminum (and these works really constitute the core of Chianti’s collection). You’ll also see Claes Oldenburg’s horseshoe sculpture entitled Monument to the Last Horse as well as all the old historic fort buildings architecturally adapted by Judd. There’s also some amazing desert grassland scenery and views that you can’t really experience in the town itself. Reservations absolutely required and take note that these tours are only offered Wednesday-Saturday. You can inquire about possible private tours of the collection though these are usually fairly pricey affairs.
https://chinati.org/visit/plan-your-visit/
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Chinati Foundation
1 Cavalry RowMarfa’s world-class art scene centers upon the Chinati Foundation, the contemporary art museum/complex of permanent large-scale installations founded by the artist Donald Judd after he moved out here in the late 1970s. Situated throughout the buildings and grounds of a sprawling 340-acre WWII military base, the collection contains works by Donald Judd and 12 other artists and the majority of these works are only accessible through their guided tours. At the present moment, though, the museum has only just reopened their doors for self-guided viewing on designated outdoor walking trails. These trails will take you through Judd’s 15 works in concrete and offer fantastic exterior views of his 100 works in mill aluminum (and these works really constitute the core of Chianti’s collection). You’ll also see Claes Oldenburg’s horseshoe sculpture entitled Monument to the Last Horse as well as all the old historic fort buildings architecturally adapted by Judd. There’s also some amazing desert grassland scenery and views that you can’t really experience in the town itself. Reservations absolutely required and take note that these tours are only offered Wednesday-Saturday. You can inquire about possible private tours of the collection though these are usually fairly pricey affairs.
https://chinati.org/visit/plan-your-visit/
The Judd Foundation, a separate institution that manages the late artist's personal estate i.e. his vast repository of private studio spaces and real estate holdings in both Marfa and New York, currently offers tours of Judd's main residential compound in Marfa (the so-called Block). The "studio tour" which offers an inside glimpse at all the downtown buildings Judd acquired in the late 1980s is temporarily on hold but check in with them soon. Reservations pretty much required as they like to limit the groups size to 10 people.
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Judd Foundation Marfa
104 S Highland AveThe Judd Foundation, a separate institution that manages the late artist's personal estate i.e. his vast repository of private studio spaces and real estate holdings in both Marfa and New York, currently offers tours of Judd's main residential compound in Marfa (the so-called Block). The "studio tour" which offers an inside glimpse at all the downtown buildings Judd acquired in the late 1980s is temporarily on hold but check in with them soon. Reservations pretty much required as they like to limit the groups size to 10 people.
Located about 35 miles west of Marfa (just beyond the town of Valentine), Prada Marfa, a roadside Pop Land Art installation/pop-cultural phenomenon, is kind of an obligatory stop these days. Keep in mind there are no services/businesses whatsoever in Valentine so I sometimes recommend incorporating into the drive either to/from the El Paso airport. (Obviously, this only applies to those flying into El Paso). Another idea is to incorporate it into a day trip to Fort Davis by taking state SH 166, a designated scenic loop linking the two towns.
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Prada Marfa
14880 US-90Located about 35 miles west of Marfa (just beyond the town of Valentine), Prada Marfa, a roadside Pop Land Art installation/pop-cultural phenomenon, is kind of an obligatory stop these days. Keep in mind there are no services/businesses whatsoever in Valentine so I sometimes recommend incorporating into the drive either to/from the El Paso airport. (Obviously, this only applies to those flying into El Paso). Another idea is to incorporate it into a day trip to Fort Davis by taking state SH 166, a designated scenic loop linking the two towns.
The neighboring town of Fort Davis is home to the world-renowned McDonald Observatory. A huge attraction here are the evening star parties, which are held several times throughout the week and tend to sell-out quickly. But on the daily guided tours you can actually handle their state-of-the-art telescoping equipment for a close-up view of the sun. Both Davis Mountain State Park and the Fort Davis National Historic site have decent hiking trails, including a more advanced trail that actually connects the two sites. (These are really some of the only hiking options around here outside of Big Bend.) There also lovely walking paths and a wonderful cacti greenhouse at the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute & Nature Conservancy.
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Fort Davis
The neighboring town of Fort Davis is home to the world-renowned McDonald Observatory. A huge attraction here are the evening star parties, which are held several times throughout the week and tend to sell-out quickly. But on the daily guided tours you can actually handle their state-of-the-art telescoping equipment for a close-up view of the sun. Both Davis Mountain State Park and the Fort Davis National Historic site have decent hiking trails, including a more advanced trail that actually connects the two sites. (These are really some of the only hiking options around here outside of Big Bend.) There also lovely walking paths and a wonderful cacti greenhouse at the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute & Nature Conservancy.
Known for its distinctive Spanish Colonial Revivial architecture and signature central courtyard, the historic Hotel Paisano is a long-established and much-loved regional landmark. Also home to Jetts Grill, a relaxed modern American/Tex-Mex restaurant with lots of charm and best couryard setting in town. Highly recommended for cocktails and definitely check out the hotel's sweeping, elegantly appointed lobby and oversized gift shop which has a great selection of homewares and furnishings pus cards and stationary, books and other fun little Marfa keepsakes.
Note: Definitely make dinner reservations as I believe the Paisano--and probably the St. George--have reduced capacity these days. Paisano also has Friday and Saturday happy hours from 2PM-5PM.
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The Hotel Paisano
207 Highland St Known for its distinctive Spanish Colonial Revivial architecture and signature central courtyard, the historic Hotel Paisano is a long-established and much-loved regional landmark. Also home to Jetts Grill, a relaxed modern American/Tex-Mex restaurant with lots of charm and best couryard setting in town. Highly recommended for cocktails and definitely check out the hotel's sweeping, elegantly appointed lobby and oversized gift shop which has a great selection of homewares and furnishings pus cards and stationary, books and other fun little Marfa keepsakes.
Note: Definitely make dinner reservations as I believe the Paisano--and probably the St. George--have reduced capacity these days. Paisano also has Friday and Saturday happy hours from 2PM-5PM.
Food scene
Rightfully regarded as the region's top boutique grocery, the Get Go stocks a solid selection of gourmet and organic foodstuffs. Also the best destination for specialty, high-quality skincare and beauty products.
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The Get Go
208 S Dean StRightfully regarded as the region's top boutique grocery, the Get Go stocks a solid selection of gourmet and organic foodstuffs. Also the best destination for specialty, high-quality skincare and beauty products.
Marfa's main and most established coffeehouse (and only laundromat) is open daily from 7:30 AM to 8PM. Until 1 PM, there's also Do Your Thing, a self-proclaimed "third wave coffeeshop" that sells specialty coffee drinks and gourmet toast (or "coffee, toast and magic") inside the revamped Lumberyard compound located across from the Get Go. The entrance is on the side just behind the Marfa Brands soap factory.
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Frama
120 N Austin StMarfa's main and most established coffeehouse (and only laundromat) is open daily from 7:30 AM to 8PM. Until 1 PM, there's also Do Your Thing, a self-proclaimed "third wave coffeeshop" that sells specialty coffee drinks and gourmet toast (or "coffee, toast and magic") inside the revamped Lumberyard compound located across from the Get Go. The entrance is on the side just behind the Marfa Brands soap factory.
The big new coffee spot in town is the Sentinel, an all-day lounge/coffeehouse/cocktail bar operated by the team behind the weekly Big Bend Sentinel paper. Revamped menu includes breakfas tacos and expanded selection of Tex-Mex and Mediterranean lunch options. The airy, stylishly redesigned space, which formerly operated as a church and then a honky-tonk, also houses the newsroom. Also nice selection of handcrafted homewares, rugs and other gifts.
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The Sentinel Marfa
209 W El Paso StThe big new coffee spot in town is the Sentinel, an all-day lounge/coffeehouse/cocktail bar operated by the team behind the weekly Big Bend Sentinel paper. Revamped menu includes breakfas tacos and expanded selection of Tex-Mex and Mediterranean lunch options. The airy, stylishly redesigned space, which formerly operated as a church and then a honky-tonk, also houses the newsroom. Also nice selection of handcrafted homewares, rugs and other gifts.
One top recommendation that's reliably open throughout the week (for both daytime and evening dining ) is the Water Stop, a hip little cafe and bar set on the western side of town. Rotisserie chicken dishes (including chicken and buttermilk waffles) are always on the menu along with other quality (mostly New American) options made from fresh, seasonal ingredients. Open daily for brunch/lunch from 11 AM to 3 PM; dinner hours are 5:30 to 11 PM.
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The Waterstop
1300 West San Antonio StreetOne top recommendation that's reliably open throughout the week (for both daytime and evening dining ) is the Water Stop, a hip little cafe and bar set on the western side of town. Rotisserie chicken dishes (including chicken and buttermilk waffles) are always on the menu along with other quality (mostly New American) options made from fresh, seasonal ingredients. Open daily for brunch/lunch from 11 AM to 3 PM; dinner hours are 5:30 to 11 PM.
Another well-established foodie destination, long known for its unique and elevated approach to contemporary American dining, is Cochineal, which now offers prix fixe dinners Friday and Saturday. Check online for weekly dining information.
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Restaurant Cochineal
107 W San Antonio St Another well-established foodie destination, long known for its unique and elevated approach to contemporary American dining, is Cochineal, which now offers prix fixe dinners Friday and Saturday. Check online for weekly dining information.
Tucked away beside the Lincoln (directly across from the courthouse lawn), this pleasant little daytime cafe and bakery is probably the only real brunch destination in town. The house made sourdough loaves and bagels are extremely popular and tend to sell out quickly. Buns and Roses on the western end of town is another relaxed breakfast option on Friday and Saturday mornings.
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Aster Marfa
215 Highland StTucked away beside the Lincoln (directly across from the courthouse lawn), this pleasant little daytime cafe and bakery is probably the only real brunch destination in town. The house made sourdough loaves and bagels are extremely popular and tend to sell out quickly. Buns and Roses on the western end of town is another relaxed breakfast option on Friday and Saturday mornings.
Also: The restaurant at the Gage Hotel in Marathon (about 50 minutes east of town) is something of a regional institution (and definitely one of the finest dining institutions in West Texas) and I highly recommend stopping in, perhaps, after visiting Alpine or maybe even on the way home from Big Bend National Park.
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Gage Hotel
Highway 90WAlso: The restaurant at the Gage Hotel in Marathon (about 50 minutes east of town) is something of a regional institution (and definitely one of the finest dining institutions in West Texas) and I highly recommend stopping in, perhaps, after visiting Alpine or maybe even on the way home from Big Bend National Park.
On any given evening of the week, you can usually dine at either the Hotel St. George or the historic Hotel Paisano. The St. George's back room restaurant LaVenture, generally well-received for its take on refined regional dining, is open every evening with reservations recommended. And for more relaxed dining throughout the day I believe they've finally reopened Bar St. George, set inside the hotel's ample lobby area.
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Hotel Saint George
105 S Highland AveOn any given evening of the week, you can usually dine at either the Hotel St. George or the historic Hotel Paisano. The St. George's back room restaurant LaVenture, generally well-received for its take on refined regional dining, is open every evening with reservations recommended. And for more relaxed dining throughout the day I believe they've finally reopened Bar St. George, set inside the hotel's ample lobby area.
The new owners of the Lost Horse Saloon i.e. Marfa's famed dive bar set on the east side of town (look for the neon red Beer sign) have finally sorted their liquor licensing tribulations and are now very much ready for business. Most days they are also open for lunch.
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Lost Horse Saloon
306 E San Antonio StThe new owners of the Lost Horse Saloon i.e. Marfa's famed dive bar set on the east side of town (look for the neon red Beer sign) have finally sorted their liquor licensing tribulations and are now very much ready for business. Most days they are also open for lunch.
Temporarily closed. Run by a Bangkok native, this highly popular lunchtime food truck serves up simple yet delicious Thai street food Monday-Friday and is a very welcome addition to the local dining scene. Very easy to spot along San Antonio Hwy in the lot beside the Sentinel coffeehouse. Open Mon-Friday 11AM-4PM.
Line Thai Food
220 West San Antonio StreetTemporarily closed. Run by a Bangkok native, this highly popular lunchtime food truck serves up simple yet delicious Thai street food Monday-Friday and is a very welcome addition to the local dining scene. Very easy to spot along San Antonio Hwy in the lot beside the Sentinel coffeehouse. Open Mon-Friday 11AM-4PM.
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Marfalist.org
Check out the town's online messaging forum (marfalist.org) for information about any special events and happenings taking place during your stay. Also useful is the site's "What's Cooking" section, where restaurants and food trucks somteimes post their daily specials or details about current hours of operation.
Kultur og skikker
Dining Tip
Last-minute dining can sometimes be difficult out here, especially after 9 PM. (In fact, many restaurants stop serving around that time.) Travelers arriving late in the evening should come prepared or try the Lost Horse Saloon, where the kitchen typically stays open until 11:30 PM or so.
Another Tip: Many restaurants are closed on Monday, especially during lunchtime. The Water Stop cafe is one reliable option (it's open daily 11 AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM) and you could also try Bar St. George, which usually remains open throughout the day.