The Black Isle: your first or last stop for NC500

Vee
The Black Isle: your first or last stop for NC500

Explore Fortrose

Places you can easily walk to from the Chanonry Bolthole via quiet roads or footpaths.
This is so much more than a ruined late mediaeval building. Ask Vee to give you a guided tour of this ancient fragment of a once much larger cathedral - she knows a lot about its history, which reflects that of the Scottish Highlands.
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Fortrose Cathedral
7 Cathedral Square
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This is so much more than a ruined late mediaeval building. Ask Vee to give you a guided tour of this ancient fragment of a once much larger cathedral - she knows a lot about its history, which reflects that of the Scottish Highlands.
Pretty little harbour with an area of gritty sand beach, tidal, but good for children if Rosemarkie is affected by an easterly wind. Narrow prom and benches tucked into alcoves.
Fortrose Harbour
4 Harbour Rd
Pretty little harbour with an area of gritty sand beach, tidal, but good for children if Rosemarkie is affected by an easterly wind. Narrow prom and benches tucked into alcoves.
Chanonry Point is the best spot for free land-based dolphin-watching on the East Coast. An easy circular walk from the Bolthole, just follow the paths down the coastal footpaths. Parking can be a nightmare down there in summer so walk. Maybe not down the middle on Ness Road though - risks of golf balls greatly increased and the golfers don't like it.
Chanonry Lighthouse
17 Ness Rd
Chanonry Point is the best spot for free land-based dolphin-watching on the East Coast. An easy circular walk from the Bolthole, just follow the paths down the coastal footpaths. Parking can be a nightmare down there in summer so walk. Maybe not down the middle on Ness Road though - risks of golf balls greatly increased and the golfers don't like it.

Explore Rosemarkie

Rosemarkie and Fortrose are friendly rivals. Hard to say which is the more ancient community - there was an ancient Culdee place of worship in Rosemarkie, which has associations with St Maelrubha, before the first stone of Fortrose Cathedral was laid in 1260. Fortrose however may have its roots in the Pictish kingdom of Fortriu. Greengates Place is really located on the Chanonry Ness, so has a foot in each camp.
Such a beautiful walk along a crystal clear burn (stream) through lush woodland. You may well see dippers (brown and white water robins) bobbing on the rocks. Stunning waterfalls and of course the occasional fairy. We recommend walking to the top of the falls then returning by the same path. There is no footway on the narrow Fairy Glen road.
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Fairy Glen Falls
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Such a beautiful walk along a crystal clear burn (stream) through lush woodland. You may well see dippers (brown and white water robins) bobbing on the rocks. Stunning waterfalls and of course the occasional fairy. We recommend walking to the top of the falls then returning by the same path. There is no footway on the narrow Fairy Glen road.
Sheltered (from all but an east wind) sandy beach with a footpath running parallel with it for about a mile up to Cairds Cave. Beyond this the beach is tidal and beyond this point you can get cut off so beware of venturing beyond Scart Craig, the narrow cliff just beyond the first cave. A Pictish era man was found buried in one of the many caves beyond this point by archaeologists recently! You may well see dolphins (in twos and threes usually), seals, otters, ravens and peregrine falcons. There is a small friendly beach cafe run for and by the local community offering home made soup and sandwiches and scrumptious local baking. Pip and I used to run this wee place so have a soft spot for it. ask for a free walks leaflet - they have the names of all the rocks on the beach and a handy map.
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Rosemarkie Beach
Kincurdie Drive
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Sheltered (from all but an east wind) sandy beach with a footpath running parallel with it for about a mile up to Cairds Cave. Beyond this the beach is tidal and beyond this point you can get cut off so beware of venturing beyond Scart Craig, the narrow cliff just beyond the first cave. A Pictish era man was found buried in one of the many caves beyond this point by archaeologists recently! You may well see dolphins (in twos and threes usually), seals, otters, ravens and peregrine falcons. There is a small friendly beach cafe run for and by the local community offering home made soup and sandwiches and scrumptious local baking. Pip and I used to run this wee place so have a soft spot for it. ask for a free walks leaflet - they have the names of all the rocks on the beach and a handy map.
This church probably stands on the site of a much older place of worship - early maps show an L-shaped building. Look out for three notable graves here: a plain cross in an enclosure opposite the eastern end of the building commemorates Dr William Brydon, only survivor of the British troops massacred at the Khyber Pass in January 1842 - a famously dramatic painting, 'Remnants of an Army' by Elizabeth Butler, depicts his arrival in Kabul, half-fainting, on horseback. Look out also for the modest headstone among the Junor graves between the church and the west gate which commemorates Eliza Junor, a local dressmaker and her brother William. They were brought 7000 miles from Guyana aged 12 and 9 by their plantation father owner Hugh Junor. Their mother's name (or mothers' names) are unknown, suggesting she was a slave. She was bright - she won a prize 'for penmanship' at Fortrose Academy at a time when it was unusual for any girl to attend school. There were many of these children in the Highlands who were both Scots and Guyanan, but also neither. Gerda Stevenson's moving poem Demerara was inspired by Eliza's story and Vee's has blogged about her here too: https://blog.majortomswar.com. Finally, on the far side of the burial ground against the wall beside the holly trees (mind your step on the very uneven tussocky grass!) you will find a memorial erected by a Mr Houston to the memory of himself and his family - before he had in fact died. His 'pedestal' and others nearby show fine examples of memento mori: skulls and crossed leg and arm bones, hour glasses, coffins, spades and dead bells! These served to remind you of your mortality and to be good in this life - for fear of being excluded from heaven.
Rosemarkie Church of Scotland
Church Place
This church probably stands on the site of a much older place of worship - early maps show an L-shaped building. Look out for three notable graves here: a plain cross in an enclosure opposite the eastern end of the building commemorates Dr William Brydon, only survivor of the British troops massacred at the Khyber Pass in January 1842 - a famously dramatic painting, 'Remnants of an Army' by Elizabeth Butler, depicts his arrival in Kabul, half-fainting, on horseback. Look out also for the modest headstone among the Junor graves between the church and the west gate which commemorates Eliza Junor, a local dressmaker and her brother William. They were brought 7000 miles from Guyana aged 12 and 9 by their plantation father owner Hugh Junor. Their mother's name (or mothers' names) are unknown, suggesting she was a slave. She was bright - she won a prize 'for penmanship' at Fortrose Academy at a time when it was unusual for any girl to attend school. There were many of these children in the Highlands who were both Scots and Guyanan, but also neither. Gerda Stevenson's moving poem Demerara was inspired by Eliza's story and Vee's has blogged about her here too: https://blog.majortomswar.com. Finally, on the far side of the burial ground against the wall beside the holly trees (mind your step on the very uneven tussocky grass!) you will find a memorial erected by a Mr Houston to the memory of himself and his family - before he had in fact died. His 'pedestal' and others nearby show fine examples of memento mori: skulls and crossed leg and arm bones, hour glasses, coffins, spades and dead bells! These served to remind you of your mortality and to be good in this life - for fear of being excluded from heaven.
This quirky wee museum focuses on Pictish art - a fabulous Pictish cross stone was found nearby and is on display here. Nice gift shop and temporary exhibitions too. Best to book.
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Groam House Museum
High Street
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This quirky wee museum focuses on Pictish art - a fabulous Pictish cross stone was found nearby and is on display here. Nice gift shop and temporary exhibitions too. Best to book.

Explore Cromarty

Vee works here sometimes. A free must-see - an authentic C18th courthouse packed with pictures of Cromarty people through the centuries. Vee scripted the eerie Courtroom and other soundscapes. Gorgeous shop with crafts too.
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Cromarty Courthouse
Church Street
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Vee works here sometimes. A free must-see - an authentic C18th courthouse packed with pictures of Cromarty people through the centuries. Vee scripted the eerie Courtroom and other soundscapes. Gorgeous shop with crafts too.
The thatched birthplace cottage, garden and museum of early 19th century writer-folklorist-palaeontologist Hugh Miller. Belongs to the National Trust for Scotland and English NT membership is valid.
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Hugh Miller's Cottage
Church Street
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The thatched birthplace cottage, garden and museum of early 19th century writer-folklorist-palaeontologist Hugh Miller. Belongs to the National Trust for Scotland and English NT membership is valid.
Recently refurbed yet traditional Highland pub and bang opposite the Courthouse. Say hi to Ingrid and Chef Pete.
The Fishertown Inn
Recently refurbed yet traditional Highland pub and bang opposite the Courthouse. Say hi to Ingrid and Chef Pete.
Book if you want a table at this Michelin-listed favourite. Great deli and heavenly pizza too.
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Sutor Creek Cafe
21 Bank St
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Book if you want a table at this Michelin-listed favourite. Great deli and heavenly pizza too.
Delicious selection of Dutch cheeses which celebrate Cromarty's past as a European trading port.
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The Cheese House
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Delicious selection of Dutch cheeses which celebrate Cromarty's past as a European trading port.
Best coffee in the Highlands and free summer entertainment as you watch the panicking expensive car owners reverse off the wee ferry up the ramp. Classic!
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Slaughterhouse Coffee
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Best coffee in the Highlands and free summer entertainment as you watch the panicking expensive car owners reverse off the wee ferry up the ramp. Classic!
This summer-only ferry (check website) will save you miles driving round and it's a beautiful wee crossing if you're brave enough to reverse off!
Cromarty Ferry Terminal station
This summer-only ferry (check website) will save you miles driving round and it's a beautiful wee crossing if you're brave enough to reverse off!